SF 457 
.T94 
Copy 1 



ivaising P. V. Squabs 
for Profit 



w 



JOHN S. TRECARTIN 

' Caldwell New Jersey 



RAISING P. V. SQUABS 
FOR PROFIT 



By JOHN S. TRECARTIN 



A Manual of Instruction from My Personal Experience 

in Building, Stocking and Managing the Largest 

Successful Squab Plant in New Jersey 




Tells how we market squabs for twelve dollars per 
dozen, wholesale. 

Details of necessary requirements for a successful 
business. 

How to house, feed, market and care for pigeons. 

Importance of good foundation stock. 

Profits and how secured. 



COPYRIGHT 1920. JOHN S. TRECARTIN. CALDWELL. N. J. 



CONTENTS A 

^■^ ^^ Page 
Introduction • • ^ 

Chapter I. 

Is There Profit in Raising Squabs? 5 

Chapter II. 

Description of Passaic Valley Squab Farm and 
Housing in General 7 

Chapter III. 

The Fundamental Requirements for Successful 
Squab Raising 10 

Chapter IV. 

The Utility Pigeon 17 

Chapter V. 

Habits and Peculiarities 20 

Chapter VI. 

Squabs for Market 24 

Chapter VII. 

Selecting Breeders 28 



MAK 1 1920 

(S)C1A563916 



INTRODUCTION 



The squab business in America has too long been 
looked upon as a pastime and game for children's amuse- 
ment. Raising squabs is not child's play, but a real 
scientific business with unlimited possibilities for de- 
velopment. 

Success in this business as in any other, depends largely 
on a proper start. Tn the following pages I will en- 
deavor to present with great simplicity the right way to 
start in the squab business and the results I have obtained 
in raising squabs for market. The information contained 
herein, may, I trust, be of as much benefit to the reader 
as it is my pleasure to impart. 

JOHN S. TRECARTIN. 



CHAPTER I. 

IS THERE PROFIT IN RAISING SQUABS? 

Of the question of profit in squab raising, there is no 
doubt. Squabs are coming into use more and more every 
day, not only as a delicacy for invalids, but also for 
hotels, restaurants, catering establishments, and house- 
hold use. 

The first question is naturally of the market for them. 
The Hebrews, who entertain lavishly, are among our 
largest customers. They buy the squabs alive, as their 
poultry has to be prepared according to the Jewish 
Dietary Laws. The hotels in all large cities use enorm- 
ous quantities of squabs, and we have had to freeze large 
quantities for them in the summer in the past few years, 
so as to insure them a steady supply through the winter 
months. We have frozen as high as 5,000 squabs for a 
single hotel in one year, and now we make a practice of 
always keeping a reserve of frozen squabs, to meet the 
winter demands. 

The prices of squabs are for the most part regulated 
by the large cities in the vicinity. Commission merchants 
are always anxious to buy in any quantity and they send 
out weekly quotations as to what they are paying for 
squabs. The prices to butchers, hotels, and consumers of 
all classes, are based on these quotations and naturally 
the direct sale to the consumer, cutting out the commis- 
sion man, commands a much higher price. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 



The following table is made up of the quotations Con- 
ron Bros., New York City, paid for squabs during the 
first week in January in the following years: — 

1912 Squabs weighing 9 lbs. to the dozen $4.75 

4.75 

4.75 

5.50 

9.25 

11.00 



1913 " " 9 lbs. 

1914 " " 9 lbs. 
1916 " " 9 lbs. 

1919 " " 9 lbs. 

1920 " " 9 lbs. 
Squabs are graded according to the weight of one 

dozen. That is, one dozen squabs weighing twelve ounces 
each, would weigh nine pounds to the dozen. We have 
taken that weight squab as a basis, as that is the average 
weight squab produced from good breeders. 

The cost of raising squabs depends entirely on the 
price of feed and the number of squabs produced during 
a given period. Before the war, it cost $1.25 a year for 
feed for one pair of pigeons. At present, the cost per 
pair for feed is $3.00, according to our records. Now, 
how many squabs will a pair of pigeons produce in a 
year? That question we cannot answer, but we know 
how many squabs we have produced from our breeders. 
In 1919, we raised an average of 14.3 squabs per pair, 
for our entire plant. Our average pen production ran 
from 10 to 16 squabs per pair a year, and as we always 
select our breeders for their fast breeding qualities and 
plump squab, we fully expect to average 15 squabs per 
pair in 1920. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 



Considering the useful breeding life of a pigeon, which 
continues for five years, the question of profit in raising 
squabs should answer itself. 

The selecting of breeders will be treated in full, further 
in the book. 

CHAPTER II. 

DESCRIPTION OF PASSAIC VALLEY SQUAB FARM 
AND HOUSING IN GENERAL. 

The Passaic Valley Squab Farm, I feel, is an ideal 
plant in an ideal location. It embodies all the best points 
and has few detriments. 

I am going to describe it rather carefully, pointing out 
its advantages and how it might be improved upon. The 
diagram will give a general idea of the floor plan, and 
photo in beginning of book gives a view of entire plant 
and water tower. 

The plant is situated in a valley, protected from the 
full sweep of the wind. The buildings cover about one 
acre of land and consist of 86 pens combined into one 
large connecting building. (A) is granary and stock 
house. (B) is picking and packing room. (C) is office. 
The granary has entrance to sections 1, 2, 3 and 4, by 
halls. Each section is divided into 20 pens, each 10 feet 
by 12 feet, with entrance on hall. Each pen has its own 
aviary, 10 feet by 20 feet, for the pigeons to exercise. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 



The pigeons nest and raise their young inside, but bathe 
and exercise outside, where they have running water. 
Each pen accommodates 50 pairs of pigeons, so the plant 
capacity is over 8,000 birds. 

Water is supplied by an artesian well and electric 
driven pump, that pumps to tower shown in picture. 
Each section is watered by one pipe running full length 
of building and perforated at each pen. The pan at each 
pen fills and when full runs down an overflow pipe into 
a drain under building. In this way a whole section of 
20 pens is watered with one shut-off and the supply is 
always fresh. All pipes in this system slope to one low 
point, so that even in zero weather, we can water and 
drain the pipes without difficulty. The bathing system 
is worked on the same plan in the aviaries, but we dis- 
connect this part of the system in the extreme weather. 

The entire plant is raised about 18 inches off the 
ground at all points, as a protection against rats. All 
entrances have heavy screen doors as well as wooden 
ones, which work with weights to always keep them shut. 
In this way, rats are kept out, and any pigeons which 
may get loose inside the halls, are always caught. Rats 
are the greatest menace to successful squab raising and 
too great precautions cannot be taken. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 



C 



3 



1 



^1 



■^i^ 






1 

■ft 
i 



Si- 



Se. 



6eo 



Sec.3 



Sec. V 



10 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

You will note on looking over diagram of plant that 
sections 1, 2, 3 and 4 are connected by granary only. 
This feature could be considerably improved by a hall 
connecting the four sections at the other end. Then 
again, there are no windows on the north side of all four 
sections, and although this was done to keep out cold, it 
could be improved with a few windows for greater light. 

Altogether I feel that the plant is as near to a model 
plant as can be found, and being within 20 miles of 
New York City and eight miles of Newark, the best 
markets are always available. 

I am not describing this plant to discourage any one 
starting in a small way in a back yard, barn, or out- 
house; but I wish to show the possibilities within the 
grasp of any one to establish a real profitable business 
of his own. 

In the next chapter, I will handle the situation from 
the beginner's standpoint. 

CHAPTER III. 

THE FUNDAMENTAL REQUIREMENTS FOR 
SUCCESSFUL SQUAB RAISING. 

Good squabs can be raised in any structure, free from 
dampness, that has sunlight and can be protected from 
rats. Any shed, outbuilding, or chicken coop can be 
turned into a first-class pigeon pen with little difficulty. 
First, the building must be made habitable by patching 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 11 



all cracks and leaks in roof. If the locality is subject to 
cold wind, snow and ice, attention must be given to sides 
and floors. The floors, particuarly, should have no holes, 
and double floors are a decided asset for the northern 
breeder. 

Making the house rat-proof, is very important, and the 
best method I know is to raise the building on posts, not 
less than 15 inches from the ground at all points. Line 
the posts with tin or put a can over the top, as is done 
with corn cribs, and you will be well protected. A win- 
dow must now be put in the southern side of house to 
allow the pigeons to reach the flying pen or aviary. The 
door also must be tight, and it is safest to have a screen 
door on the inside, with a spring to always keep it in 
place. If this is lined with one-half-inch mesh wire, it 
will serve as a protection from rats, and allow for good 
ventilation. 

Equipping the house is easily and cheaply accom- 
plished by the use of egg crates turned on the side, with 
opening facing out. These should have a three-inch strip 
nailed across front at bottom of crate, to keep the squabs 
and eggs from falling out, or better still, make an inside 
rectangle of three-inch lumber that just fits inside the 
crate. By this, I mean a draw three inches high and 
eleven and one-half inches in width and length, but with- 
out a bottom, as the lower side of the crate completes 
the bottom. 



12 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 




NEST 



FRONT OF CRATE 



Figure 3. CRATE IN POSITION AND NEST 

With this draw in place, the squabs are protected with 
a three-inch partition in front, and to clean, simply pull 
the draw out and have a basket beneath to catch the nest 
in. In making the so-called draw, care should be taken 
to cut two pieces eleven-and-one-half inches and two ten- 
and-one-half inches. The eleven-and-one-half-inch pieces 
are to run all the way to the rear of box, and the shorter 
pieces comprise the front and rear pieces. The longer 
pieces overlap the front and rear pieces and are nailed 
securely. By having the front and rear pieces short and 
the side pieces long, the draw will always pull out with- 
out breaking. If made the other way, the nails may pull 
out when you clean house. The ten-and-one-half-inch 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 13 

pieces are figured on the basis of using lumber that is 
five-eighths-inch in thickness. Figure No. 3 shows crate 
in position and nest ready to put in place. 

One pair of pigeons uses both sides of one egg crate 
as they like to alternate in breeding. Sometimes they 
have squabs in one side and commence a nest in the 
other side. By the time the squabs are three weeks' old, 
there will often be eggs in the other side of box. After 
crates and nests are ready, arrange in east and west side 
of pen, piling as high as necessary to accommodate the 
number of pairs. The north side of house may also be 
used for nest boxes, or, if the east and west sides of 
house are piled near the roof, it is well to have a landing 
board or perch on the north end. A shelf should always 
be put above the southern window and two openings cut 
through the side, to let the birds into the aviary, when 
the window is closed. 

Outside, there must also be a corresponding shelf for 
the pigeons. One hole is not sufficient, as a cock bird will 
often block the one opening and keep other birds off their 
eggs until they are chilled. To complete the inside 
equipment, you need a drinking fountain or pan, so pro- 
tected that the pigeons can only put their heads into the 
water. A small box will do for grit and this should be 
placed near the floor in a clean spot, protected from all 
droppings. The feed, I believe, is best handled by 
spreading in a long, narrow trough about one-and-one- 



14 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 




Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 15 

half inches high and long enough so that all the pigeons 
can get a chance at the food at the same time. In a pen 
of 50 pairs, this is not practical, but I have the trough 
six feet long, ten inches wide, and two inches deep, for a 
large number like this. 

The aviaries, except for being on the southern side of 
building, can vary according to available space and num- 
ber of birds. Pigeons, for best results in housing, should 
never be crowded into less than one square foot to a bird 
and one-and-one-half or two square feet is best. The 
aviaries should have two to three square feet to a bird 
and should be from six to ten feet in height. Our pens 
are 10 by 12 feet inside and 10 by 20 by 10 outside. 
These pens accommodate 40 to 50 pairs comfortably. 
Two-inch mesh wire is all that is required, although some 
breeders use one-inch mesh. In ordering wire, specify 
galvanized after weaving, or galvanized before and after. 
It pays to do this, as good wire lasts eight or nine years. 
The posts or uprights for aviary should be two by four 
lumber with the sunken end well tarred, or any fairly 
heavy posts available. If the fly is to accommodate 
more than five or ten pairs of pigeons, nothing smaller 
than two by four should be used in the frame work, pro- 
vided that the winters are severe. A heavy snow will some- 
times hold on the wire, and is apt to break the supports 
and release the birds. Particularly watch the fastening 
of your wire to the coop along the top edge. 



16 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

The outside equipment consists of a bathing pan about 
24 to 36 inches in diameter and four to six inches in 
depth. A door should be provided in aviary and a few 
perches or landing boards, along the sides. 

This, I believe, completes the necessary house to make 
a successful start, and the only exceptions I would make 
are for the breeders in warm climates, who can best be 
advised to follow the example of neighboring chicken 
and pigeon raisers. In southern California, I saw fine 
squabs raised with a northeastern exposure, no floors, 
and only a three-sided shed. Here one side was open 
entirely and nest boxes were built high enough to pro- 
tect from rats. The aviaries were constructed of slats 
instead of wire, so as to furnish greater protection. In 
Jacksonville, Fla., I went through a large plant very 
similar in construction to the northern breeders, and the 
feeding was about the same as mine. Each locality has 
a few distinguishing features, so if you combine these 
instructions with a little observation and thought, you 
cannot go far wrong as to proper housing. 

In the next chapter I will deal with the breeders, and 
it cannot too often be said, that no matter how fine the 
plant and equipment, it will all be wasted unless you 
start with foundation stock, that has been scientifically 
perfected. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 17 

CHAPTER IV. 
THE UTILITY PIGEON. 
From my experience in true utility breeding, or squab 
breeding for market, there is one basic bird that stands 
for hardy, plump, even-sized squabs, and plenty of them. 
That bird is the homing pigeon. The homer will breed 
more squabs in a year and use less feed, per pair, a year, 
than any bird I have ever handled. The birds are very 
hardy, can stand extreme cold and breed well through 
the winter months. Unfortunately, even these birds have 
a slight failing. The true homer breeds a squab a little 
small for the best market price. The squabs run six, 
seven and eight pounds to the dozen, and the best de- 
mand is for eight, nine and ten pounds to the dozen 
squabs. We experimented carefully with many of the 
larger breed of birds, but they all had a failing, some 
would breed well in summer, but not in winter; some 
ate too much for the number of squabs produced; some 
would breed one large squab and the other very thin; 
and some would breed nice twelve-pound squabs, but 
we could not get a proportionately high price for them 
to warrant the extra food required and extra time re- 
quired for them to mature. After seven years of experi- 
menting, we believe we have now the best utility bird in 
the country, namely the P. V. Special Homer. These 
birds breed squabs the marketable size: eight, nine and 
ten pounds to the dozen. Less than 15 per cent, ran 



18 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

under eight pounds to the dozen last year. They breed 
plump, broad-breasted squabs and do not eat more than 
the average homer. The squabs are ready for market in 
four weeks from the time hatched, and if kept for breed- 
ing, they commence mating in three months; being one 
of the quickest birds to mature. 

A small start with good birds is the foundation of 
success. A fine flock can be built up from a few good 
pairs, but poor stock will soon discourage anyone and 
do harm to the business. 

Next to P. V. Homers, we believe the P. V. Carneaux 
are the best. These birds breed a nine, ten, eleven and 
twelve pound to the dozen squab, and always a beauti- 
fully-shaped and white-meated squab. Of course, these 
fine, large birds will eat more than homers and the squabs 
will take a little longer to mature, but if you are in a 
locality to command a high price or sell them retail, you 
cannot go wrong in having a few pairs. These birds are 
particularly tame and can easily be made into pets. 

I believe firmly, that for profitable squab raising these 
two breeds of pigeons are decidedly the best choice, al- 
though there are other good birds for squab raising, such 
as Mondaines, Royal Whites, White Kings, and Maltese 
Hen Pigeons. 

We have most of these birds for show purposes, but we 
will not go into detail, as we feel that P. V. Homers and 
Carneaux are really the best utility breeders. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 19 

A word of caution might well be put in here against 
buying cheap birds. They are never worth any more 
than you will pay for them, and many are only fit for 
eating purposes along with common pigeons. 

Our method of shipping birds enables them to arrive 
in first-class condition over very long distances. The birds 
are packed in strong, light cases with a partition to sepa- 
rate the males and females. A bag of feed and drinking 
cup go with each case. Instructions are sent with each 
order for feeding and watering while in transit. 

Your attention must now be given to preparing the pen 
for the pigeons: — 

Close all openings into the aviary and see that the 
drinking pan or fountain is filled with fresh water. 
Shake a few tobacco stems loosely in a pile under the 
window or else in a corner. The grit box should be half 
filled with a good prepared pigeon grit; Red Cross grit 
is as good as any and contains all the necessary ingred- 
ients for the birds. A little feed should now be put in 
trough. A small handful for each pair, is sufficient at 
first. 

You are now ready to release the birds. The males 
are marked with a color band on the right leg and the 
females on the left leg. Keep a record as you let the 
birds go to see that each male has a female with a cor- 
responding band. That is, a male bird with a blue band 



20 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

on the right leg must have a female also with a blue band 
on the left leg. The next chapter will explain the habits 
of the birds and why they are banded. 

CHAPTER V. 

HABITS AND PECULIARITIES. 

In the first place, pigeons are monogamous. They 
must always be kept in even pairs, because they select 
their mate and very seldom ever change, unless forced to 
select another mate in a mating coop. Even pairs of 
pigeons will soon settle down quietly in various nest 
boxes. They usually keep the same nest boxes and alter- 
nate, having squabs first in one side and then the other. 
After the birds have become accustomed to their quarters 
and have selected in which nest they are going to start 
housekeeping, it will not be many days, before they be- 
gin to carry stems from the pile on the floor and start 
their nest. They need no assistance and should not be 
unnecessarily disturbed until they commence laying. 
This should occur in about two weeks and then it is ad- 
visable to look over the nests twice a week, and see that 
sll new nests are well made and do not resemble a golf 
tee. Birds sometimes will build a high nest and lay the 
eggs on the top without any support. It is best to spread 
out a nest of this kind, after removing the eggs, so as to 
give a good foundation. Make a slight hollow in the 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 21 

centre of the stems and then replace the eggs, but be 
sure and see that the nest is firm enough to keep the eggs 
from sinking in, under the stems. 

It is advisable for the beginner to mark very lightly 
with pencil, on eggs, the date laid. In this way it is very 
easy to learn the appearance of an egg at different ages, 
and soon you will be able to discern a bad egg at a glance 
and remove it, so that the old birds will not waste time 
sitting on it. Fresh laid eggs are semi-transparent and 
have a slightly dull appearance. They gradually .grow 
opaque and solid white, with only an air space discern- 
able unless candled. During the third week, the shell 
will begin to chip and the baby squab will chip a com- 
plete circle, in end of egg and gradually work out. One 
egg will usually hatch a day in advance of the other. 
This is accounted for by the fact that there is from one 
to two days between the time the hen lays the eggs. The 
birds always lay the eggs in pairs, but once in a while 
two pairs of birds will lay in the same nest and give the 
impression that four eggs have been laid. 

Bad eggs are discernable easily with a little practice. 
At a week or ten days' old, bad eggs will have almost the 
appearance of a fresh laid egg, only they are shiny in- 
stead of dull on the outside, and are semi-transparent. 
If eggs like these are shaken gently, you can feel that 
they are loose and watery inside. On being held to the 
light and turned, the air space will shift all over. In 



22 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 



good eggs, the air space is stationary. An egg, two or 
three weeks' old, having decided dark lines through it, 
is a sign that the squab has died in the shell. If uncer- 
tain as to an egg, it is best to leave till it developes def- 
inite signs of being bad. 

Young squabs do not need assistance to get out of 
shell, but the empty shell can be removed later. The 
young squabs should not be handled too much and I do 
not advise any artificial feeding at all, as the old birds 
will give their young the best care. After eating and 
drinking, the old birds will fly to the nest and feed the 
young from their bills, just the right proportions of 
grain, formed into a substance called pigeon milk. The 
so-called pigeon milk varies according to the size of 
squabs and later contains whole grains and water. The 
squabs should never leave the nest till fully feathered, 
this takes about four weeks, and at that time the squabs 
are ready for market. To determine the exact age for 
marketing, look beneath the wings, as they feather out 
here last. 

The feeding I have not gone into before, as it is con- 
tingent on the squabs. 

Of course, every locality has peculiarities of its own 
and certain grains are cheaper in certain places. Your 
local dealer, no doubt, has a good pigeon feed to start 
with. Later you can improve and economize by mixing 
your own feed. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 2:^ 

Our formula for winter feeding, is as follows: — 

Argentine Corn.. . . 30% Kaffir Corn 25% 

Red Wheat 10% Buckwheat 20% 

Peas 15% 

Summer feeding is: — 

Argentine Corn 25% Kaffir Corn 30% 

Red Wheat 15%o Peas 30% 

Using these two formulas as a basis, you can easily 
arrange the best formula for yourself. Corn and buck- 
wheat are very heatening, and the latter can be entirely 
dispensed with in warm localities. The corn should 
either be Argentine Corn or small American Corn with 
a part cracked corn. The amount of cracked corn is de- 
termined by the quality. If you can get a good re- 
cleaned steel-cut cracked corn, fairly free from loose 
fibre, it is all right to use half-and-half with the whole 
American Corn. Otherwise use 25% cracked to 75% 
whole corn. 

All grains must be reasonably cured and dried. Do 
not buy new crops of grains until well seasoned. In- 
ferior grains like heated corn, or wheat that has sprouted, 
are all to be avoided. Scratch feed is not to be recom- 
mended as a steady diet, but will serve for a while. 
Most scratch feeds contain rye, barley and oats, all three 
of which I do not recommend as pigeon feed. Scratch 
feed also lacks peas, and these are the finest fattening 
and strengthening food that squabs can get. 



24 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

See that the birds get fed regularly twice a day and 
that they clean up all the food given them, within an 
hour. The morning feeding should be between 7:30 and 
8:30, and in summer, not later than 8 o'clock. 

Afternoon feeding should be around 3 o'clock in win- 
ter and 4 o'clock in summer. If the birds can only be 
fed once a day, feed in the morning and see that some 
feed lasts until 3 o'clock in the afternoon. It is easy to 
judge by the way the birds fly for the grain whether they 
are fed too heavily or too lightly. 

Fig. 5 illustrates the card we use to regulate feeding. 

A circular piece of card board, mounted with a thumb 
tack through centre, just outside the door, shows how 
much feed was given at last feeding. The top of card 
indicates the amount. Always setting the card the 
amount fed, avoids waste and having too much feed 
standing around, which may become mouldy and cause 
sickness. 

CHAPTER VI. 
SQUABS FOR MARKET. 

Squabs are ready for market at from four to four-and- 
one-half weeks from the time hatched. As soon as the 
squabs are fully feathered, they should be removed from 
the nest, as they will soon jump from nest and run on 
the floor, thereby losing weight until killed. 

If squabs are to be killed at once, care should be taken 
to remove from pen just before feeding time, so that their 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 




Figure 5. REVOLVING FEED REGULATOR 



crops will not be full of grain. They may even be taken 
the night before, if kept in a warm place. 

To kill squabs properly, they should be hung up by 
the feet. Two nails driven partially into a board about 
an eighth of an inch apart will serve nicely to clamp the 
feet. The wings should now be twisted over each other 
twice, so that they cannot flap. Killing the squab re- 



26 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

quires a little knack. First, take the small blade of a 
penknife and after grasping the head of the squab firmly 
with thumb and forefinger, just over eyes, put the blade 
down the throat at least one inch, and then pull up 
through the top of head. If squab does not die in thirty 
seconds, repeat as it is difficult for a novice to cut the 
wind pipe and brain the first time. 

Plucking is easy and should be done while the squab 
is still warm. Start with the wings, which are the hardest, 
and end with the tail feathers. Picking against the 
feathers is quickest and is less likely to tear the skin. 

After picking, the squab should be dropped into cold 
water to cool and harden. It is best for them to soak for 
at least three hours, and over night will not harm them, 
if the water is cold and something is put over top so as 
to keep squabs entirely below the surface. 

Grading squabs as to size depends on whom you are 
selling to. Small, medium, and large, is usually sufficient 
grading, but if you desire to grade by pounds to the 
dozen accurately, the following table shows just what 
grade various weight squabs come under. 
6 Pound to the dozen Squabs 8 ozs. to 9I/3 ozs. 



7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 



91/3 ozs. to 10% ozs. 
10% ozs. to 12 ozs. 
12 ozs. to 13^ ozs. 
13% ozs. to 14% ozs. 
14% ozs. to 16 ozs. 
over 16 ozs. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 27 

It is not necessary to weigh each squab individually. 
A half-dozen about the same size will show the approx- 
imate weight per dozen. 

In packing squabs to ship by express, they should be 
laid side by side or feet up and tight enough so as not to 
shake around. In warm seasons ice should be used be- 
tween each layer and newspapers will help to hold cold 
and avoid bruising. Mark every shipment "Perishable 
— Rush," and always send an invoice in all shipments 
sent to commission merchants. 

In sending squabs alive, care must be taken to get the 
birds out with full crops, so that they will not loose 
weight in transit. The crate for shipment should be 
fairly open to allow for plenty of ventilation. Over- 
crowding must be avoided as the squabs huddle in 
groups and smother easily. A regular spindle coop, 
about 24 inches by 36 inches and 1 foot high, will hold 
30 live squabs for shipping; more than that is risky. 

All shipments of live squabs should also be marked, 
"Perishable — Rush," the number of birds in shipment, 
and also the value. 

If squabs are to be sold for breeding purposes, they 
should not be shipped till they are at least eight weeks' 
old, and preferably ten weeks. Only strong birds should 
be shipped and no shipments should be made in ex- 
tremely cold weather. 



28 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

CHAPTER VIl. 

SELECTING BREEDERS. 

Selecting squabs for breeding purposes must be done 
with great care and understanding. If the right kind of 
birds are not selected your flock will gradually deterior- 
ate. With careful selection, although slow, you will con- 
santly be adding profitable breeders to your stock. This 
is, of course, if you start with P. V. Breeders, so as to 
have the neucleus of a good flock to start with. Remem- 
ber, good breeders will breed plump, white squabs at a 
fast rate, while poor breeders will grow small, dark 
squabs that have not the vitality to ever be first-class 
breeders. Even with P. V. breeders you must use care in 
selecting the young, and it is wise when starting with a 
few of our breeders to sell your squabs for a time and 
buy more of our breeders until your flock is large enough 
to have a good selection to choose from. 

The months when squabs should be saved for breeders 
are, February, March, April and May. The birds are in 
the best of condition then and the squabs will be strong 
and vigorous. June and July squabs are good, but are 
more expensive to raise, as they are at mating age in 
September, October and November, when they are sub- 
ject to moult and are difficult to mate at this time. I do 
not recommend saving squabs during the other months, 
as I have found from experience that they will breed well 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 



29 





HI 






Hm 






■ f 


JH^^^^ 


,^ ' 


^IM^' 


i 


^^^B 


i 1 11 




HjIj 



30 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

for two or three years, and then, there is a falling off in 
squabs and a heavy death rate among the hens. 

When ready to select your squabs for breeders, get 
some light pigeon bands. We use a celluloid coil band 
that wraps around the leg and stays in position without 
fastening. By using a different color band every month, 
we know at a glance the age of the youngster. Always 
take your squabs in pairs and unless there are two good 
healthy squabs in the nest do not take them. They do 
not have to be of unusual size, but they should both be 
well fed and weigh eight, nine or ten pounds to the dozen 
if dressed. Band one bird on the right leg and the other 
on the left and put back in the nest again. This banding 
is merely to keep from inbreeding and marking so as 
not to kill, and has nothing to do with their being males 
or females. It is impossible to tell with certainly the 
sex of a pigeon without noting its actions. With squabs 
it is still harder, and although after becoming experi- 
enced, it is possible to make accurate guesses, one is apt 
to make a mistake even with old birds. 

The squabs banded should be left with the parent birds 
till they are eight weeks' old. Then remove to separate 
pens. The birds banded on the right leg should go in 
one pen and the youngsters banded on the left leg in a 
separate pen. This will prevent nest mates going to- 
gether and avoid inbreeding. 



Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 31 



The feeding and care for these birds should be the 
same as for old breeders, except that they should not have 
large American Corn and only five per cent. peas. The 
grit should have a little olive oil mixed with it once a 
week. The birds will thrive satisfactorily for about one 
month in their new quarters and then care has to be 
taken to see that they do not get out in rainy weather, 
as they undergo a moult and are very subject to cold. 
This moulting time lasts for about three weeks, and when 
they get past this stage you will see signs of ihe birds 
mating. Do not be in any hurry to mate them, as their 
first eggs are usually bad and they sometimes will break 
their matings when taken out too young. 

The safest way to mate young pigeons is to catch the 
birds sitting on eggs. Color band the hen on the left leg,, 
who usually sits in the morning till around 11 o'clock. 
The corresponding band should be fastened somewhere 
on the nest, and when you see the mate sitting on the 
eggs, in the afternoon, you must catch him, and band on 
the right leg. Catching pigeons is usually done with a 
landing net or crab net with a short handle. The birds 
should always be caught from behind, if flying, so as not 
to injure them. After you have caught the pair, they 
should be removed to a separate pen so that they can 
start to breed without interference. If the eggs are good 
that they were sitting on, they can be placed under other 
birds that have eggs of about the same age, and some- 



32 Raising P. V. Squabs for Profit 

times are raised satisfactorily. Do not make the mistake 
of just leaving all your youngsters alone and trusting 
they will form even pairs, for if you do, there are sure 
to be odd cocks that will interfere seriously with their 
breeding. 

Night mating with a flash light is the quickest method, 
but requires a dark night and considerable skill to always 
pick out the mated pairs. Mated pairs will often sit 
together on the front of their nest at night or the hen on 
the eggs or squabs and the cock on the front. These 
birds can be readily caught but great care must be exer- 
cised lest the other birds fly off^ their nests and spoil their 



Driving pairs, that is, when one bird continually chases 
another around pecking at it, are usually mated but not 
always, so be careful to watch them closely if you select 
mated pairs this way. 

As a closing remark I would say, I have found raising 
squabs is one of the pleasantest, most interesting, and 
profitable ways of employing spare time, and whether 
you are a man or woman, if you apply this motto, you 
can succeed in the squab industry. 

Good Breeders, Good Feed, and Good Care, 

Then You Will Get 
Good Squabs, Good Prices, and Good Profits, 

Namely, SUCCESS. 



LIBRARY OF CONGRESS 

lilliiiiilllliiliiilii 



002 855 932 fl % 



